Sunday, August 25, 2013

Coat Muslin: first photos

Prepare yourselves for some hideous fabric.  I'll keep this brief not only to spare your retinas, but because the print makes it difficult to see wrinkles.

With only the bodice assembled, it's pretty clear that there is too much fabric in the back.  The shoulder seam is lifting up on the back and that pattern piece should be angled down a little.    The front looks good.  

I adjusted the shoulder seam and it's now laying flat.  With the sleeve attached, we can see that the horizontal balance line (HBL) is not parallel to the floor but it is swinging forward.  Also, there is a pouf of extra fabric at the side back behind the sleeve. 

I took out some fabric at the bodice side back and reattached the sleeve.  There is still wrinkling, and still too much fabric there.  I'm going to rework the back and back of the sleeve again.  I'll take some width out of the center back as well as the side back.

Next up...muslin version 2.  I was debating making the 2nd muslin out of something wearable, but then remembered my goal: not to take shortcuts with this coat.  So I will make version 2.0 out of the same home dec hideousness that I have remaining.  

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