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Showing posts with label Jalie 2563. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jalie 2563. Show all posts

Friday, July 22, 2016

Activewear!!

Jess, this one is for you!

I have been sewing all kinds of active wear since I started running regularly.  It seems my machine always has a stretch needle on it.

First up, sports bras. I have made several versions of Jalie 2563.  I made a size V and lined the fronts with firm powernet in order to have some serious compression.  I also lined the backs with less firm powernet.  Compression indeed!  The negative side effect of this compression is that once sweaty, the bra was really hard to get off.  I needed some escape help.  So...I tweaked the back and added bra hooks!  It was a simple change involving making a "U" shaped cut out of the back the width of the bra hooks I wanted to add.  I covered the edges of the U with fold over elastic before attaching the hooks. Now I can get it off without contorting myself.


I used a variety of fabrics including swimwear nylon spandex, red supplex, and a gray wicking activewear knit. 

Next up: Steeplechase Leggings!!

I really like wearing running tights in colder weather and was very interested in the Fehr Trade Steeplechase leggings since they have clever seaming an no seams on the inner thighs.  I did make a muslin of these to check the fit.  My hips were a L and waist was closer to a M, so I cut a L for the legs and made the yoke smaller by making several partial depth cuts at the top of the pattern piece and then overlapping the cuts to make it 3/4" smaller. I followed the advice of fellow pear shaped runner, Kathy, and raised the CB up 1", although she took the complicated route, and I just made the yoke taller in the back tapering to 0" at the sides.  Like her, I found the legs to be a little loose and took them in about 1/2" with my serger after they were assembled.  

My first pair were capri length and made from a gray/black "space print" I found at Hancock Fabrics (RIP).  The my 2nd pair was made to be bike short length, above the knee.  The leggings are drafted for someone with longer legs than mine, and I need to shorten them almost 3".  This pair was made with a blue/pink "space print" also purchased at Hancock.  I omitted the back pocket since I wear a hydration belt (like this) when I run and didn't need the extra pocket. 

Here they are:

(For comparison of body shape, the gray pair was photographed in mid-May and the blue on July 1st.)

I really like the Steeplechase leggings and find them to be very comfortable when running.  With that success, I really wanted to try the Cora running short from my beloved Jalie Patterns.  Again I consulted Kathy's blog to see what she did with her Coras.  Based on her recommendation, I did not raise the CB since she said they had great coverage as is.  I also wanted some compression so I made a straight size X which is one size smaller than my high hip measurement.  The fabric was a High Performance ATY Nylon Spandex in Heather Purple from SpandexWorld.com for the main body of the shorts.  The waistband and leg bands were made with a Violet Nylon Activewear knit from FabricMart, which was slightly stretchier than the Heather Purple.  Construction-wise the pattern is excellent.  The fit was great too.  They are definitely compression shorts both because I made a smaller size than suggested and also because my fabric was slightly firm.  They are very comfortable for running and they make me feel awesome!  


My next pair was made with my blue/pink "space print" for the front of the legs and denim blue supplex from FabricMart for the remainder.  I skipped the back pocket for both pairs.



The blue supplex was less firm than the Heather Purple, so I didn't hesitate to make this pair in a size X as well.  They are also excellent, just not a compressing.  

But wait...there is more!  More activewear and more Jalie!

Enter Jalie 2796 multi-sport skort.  I made a few tweaks to this pattern.  I had read reviews of other curvy sewists who said that the back of the skirt was a little snug across their curves.  So I slashed and spread the back of the skirt pattern piece to be 1" wider at hip level.  The back piece is very A-line now.  

My first version was the royal blue which was made with an athletic mesh type knit that I think I bought at Hancockfabrics.com but I really don't know for sure.  The mesh wasn't as stretchy as was needed for the waistband (I couldn't even come close to getting it past my hips.  Thankfully I had some royal blue swimwear spandex that worked perfectly.  Underneath the skirt, I made the compression shorts using a Nike Dri-Fit purchased from Sewsassy.com.  I didn't even bother hemming the shorts...no need for extra seams or bulk along the inseam. I felt like the waist should have come up higher, all around, especially in the back.  I raised the front waistband up 3/4" and raised the back waistband up 3/4" at the side seams and 1.5" at the center back.  I also lengthened the skirt.  Version 2 was the marron version using the same mesh-type fabric.  I knew I didn't have any matching spandex to use for the waistband, so I used gray wicking athletic knit.  The 3rd version was the black/gray space print and black ITY for the contrast and waistband.  I love these!!


Last up is the one thing that isn't really me.  I bought the Fehr Trade VNA top, and for some reason I thought it had a built in sports bra...it doesn't.  I guess I got confused with the XYT top.  Anyway, I used my violet activewear knit from Fabric mart for the lower front/back and bindings and  the blue/pink space print for everything else.  I raised the neckline up 2" to provide more coverage on my chest.  





The instructions were very good an walked you through the assembly step by step.  I made a size Small and that seems right.  I think I need a little more length in the upper front, the seam hit me in a weird place.  I have worn it, and it is comfortable, and not having side seams is a plus, but it doesn't really feel like me.  I really don't like excess sun exposure and I feel a little exposed in this top.  Maybe I'll wear it on cloudy days. 

There you go, lots of sewing, lots of activewear!

Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Swimwear!

I spend a lot of time during the summer at the pool, and I like to vary which suits I wear each day.  I also wear rash guards so that adds more variety to my swim wardrobe.  The 3 suits I wear the most are my 2 versions of Jalie 3023, in blue (blogged here) and red polka dots (blogged here).  I also wear this one, which is a Jalie 3023 skirted bottom and a Jalie 2563 sport bra top.  

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I love tankinis and wanted to make a new one in a different style.  I wound up copying a RTW suit I had that fit well, but whose elastic was showing its age and whose straps were stretching out.  For the top front, I copied the RTW suit, and for the back I used Jalie 3023 raising up the back to eliminate the back band.  I cut the straps extra-long so that I could decide later if I wanted them to cross in the back or not. 




The bikini bottoms I copied directly from my RTW suit, and once I tried it on, it was a little blousy on the back (I’ve never had that problem before!) and I removed some of the length between the legs by taking an extra large seam at the crotch.  There is still a little bit of extra fabric but it is acceptable as is. (Sorry: no photos of the bottoms). The fabric was a printed spandex from SpandexWorld.com that I bought quite a while ago and had been saving for something special.


As I said before, I wear rash guards at the pool since I don’t want to tan/age prematurely.  My current collection of rash guards, most of which were purchased from Land’s End, are starting to wear out.  The fabric in several spots have worn thin and they need to be replaced.  I have made one rash guard for myself using Jalie 2566, (blogged here).  Searching on Pinterest for some rash guard inspiration, I noticed that most of the ones I liked had raglan sleeves.  I owned Jalie 3245, the raglan tee and tank pattern but had only made the tank.  I traced off a size V (2 sizes smaller than I would normally) and raised the neckline up to be much higher for a rash guard.  For the sleeve and back, I used the size FF neckline.  The front needed to be raised up even higher than the FF level.   I did a quick muslin and was happy with the fit.  Instead of doing Jalie’s method for the neck binding (which is quite clever) I cut a 2” wide band and folded it in half lengthwise, for a Renfrew-style neck binding.  I also made the sleeves full length. 



The fabric is a very pretty navy background with dark turquoise rose and leaves.  I purchased it from Hancock Fabrics before they closed their doors for good (sniff sniff).  I absolutely love how it turned out!




(the sleeves are all twisted because I was already wet when it put this on!) 

Thursday, May 28, 2015

A New Swimsuit


Here is a quick post showing photos of my latest swimsuit.  The skirted bottoms are Jalie 3023, and the top is  Jalie 2563 (view B).  I used a stained glass patterned spandex from SpandexWorld.com.



Here are IRL photos of me poolside in Cancun!



The only changes I made to the bottoms were to raise the waistband and to lengthen the skirt.  The top was made without changes.

Back to vacation!

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