There are over 75 reviews on Pattern Review for McCall's 6886: a close fitting knit dress with neckline variations. I wasn't sure how this would work on me and my pear shape, but I thought I'd give it a try anyway. My first version was done in black ponte. I cut a 14 in the shoulders and did a 1.25" FBA adding a bust dart. I also did a 1" swayback adjustment. My result wasn't bad. I had graded up to a 16/18 at the waist and a 20 at the hip. It was very big. I took about 3/4" off each side from the waist down to the hip. (That was very surprising for me). There was still a lot of pooling in my lower back, so I wound up making 2 back darts to take up the excess fabric.
Back view: (I really need to work on standing up straight and not dropping my right shoulder). You cans see the back darts I made to eliminate the excess fabric at the back.
Here is the front view: I don't look like a giant pear!
Side view: not bad
Side view of bust dart. Looks like I need a slightly larger FBA
The black dress came out pretty well, but I thought I should try again right away. Version 2 was made with a very stretchy striped knit (it must be interlock or double knit because it is exactly the same on both sides) purchased at my local Hancock Fabrics in the clearance section. For this version I made an even bigger swayback adjustment and skipped the bust dart and did a cheater FBA by grading out at the bust. I lined the front and back with an ivory nylon tricot. I love the feeling that the lining gives, it's very sleek and smooth on the skin. It also adds stability to the stretchy knit.
My hem looks a little funny in these photos. I hemmed the lining together with the knit. The problem that I discovered is that the knit stretches vertically but the lining does not. I may cut the lining loose and leave it unhemmed.
The back view is pretty good, no darts, and no real pooling. :)
I had trouble following the instructions included in the pattern but I found this great video from Jalie:
Closeup of the V neck.
There was one flaw in the fabric...look where it wound up: on my right side, a few stripes up from the bottom of the V. Sigh.
In the interest of full disclosure, I had to do some finagling around the bust. I had initially thought to do some slight gathers along the bust at the side seams, (like Vogue 8536) but it was ridiculous with this fabric, and I needed to remove the sleeves and re-do the underarm and lower front armhole area. After some trimming and basting it turned out ok.
I wore it out with a red scarf and a denim jacket. My daughter said all I needed was a beret to look really French! :)
In the interest of full disclosure, I had to do some finagling around the bust. I had initially thought to do some slight gathers along the bust at the side seams, (like Vogue 8536) but it was ridiculous with this fabric, and I needed to remove the sleeves and re-do the underarm and lower front armhole area. After some trimming and basting it turned out ok.
I wore it out with a red scarf and a denim jacket. My daughter said all I needed was a beret to look really French! :)
In summary, I really like this pattern. It does work on pear shapes. It was drafted roomier than I expected through the waist and hip and it was a nice ego boost to have to take it in in those areas!
