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Showing posts with label Vogue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vogue. Show all posts

Sunday, May 15, 2016

Endless Combinations!!

Hello! I have been sewing like mad!  When I discovered that Hancock Fabrics was going out of business, I went a little nuts buying fabric.  By "a little nuts", I mean a little more than a little.  ;)

I started sewing up my new-found stash and then discovered the Endless Combinations Contest going on at Pattern Review.  It was fate I tell you!!

Let me describe my entries in the following ways:
1.  Using cool fabric
2.  Replicating a cool pattern envelope photo
3.  Replicating a long gone and memories-attached jacket


First up. A skirt made from a blue/white/navy/green swirly ITY knit.  I used the trusty McCall's 6654:



Cool fabric isn't it??  Since the going out of business sale at Hancocks had 2 yard minimum cuts, I had plenty left over for a top to match.  Enter Vogue 8390:


My previous version of this pattern was in a brown knit and I still love it (but it did need some tweaks):

When the 2 pieces are worn together, it looks like a dress:


On a side note, I have started running...and apparently my waist has returned!!

Part 2 of my thoughts for this contest was replicating the Jalie Eleonore pattern cover.  In particular, the light blue capris and the striped top:

Jalie Eleonore Jeans

The model seemed so springy, cool and comfortable.  It is very unlike me to copy a pattern photo, but it happened this time.  I even bought similar shoes!!  

My attempt at the cover pose

I did a split hem on these, using this excellent tutorial from pattern~scissors~cloth.

The top was a new pattern: New Look 6384.   Let me tell you that the top runs big.  I cut a large and should have done a medium.  The neckline was both low and wide.  I took in the shoulder seams and also the center front.  The fabric was a white striped interlock knit which I used on this dress:
McCall's 6886 blogged here

I am not a big fan of interlock knit mostly because it has poor recovery.  My neckline was a wavy mess when I finished it:

I was industrious and used some stretch thread which I ran through the channeling made by the neck binding.  I did not follow the pattern instructions, but used Jalie's method of using a skinny binding. Here is a great tutorial to show how it's done.  Once the elastic thread was inside the casing, it was almost gathered.  After ironing, however, it came out perfect!  Quite the save!!


So my pattern envelope re-enactment was finished and last up was replicating a long gone and memories-attached jacket.  Back when I was 18, I was an exchange student in France (Western Brittany).  At some point during my year long stay, I purchased a white Gap jean jacket from the Kilo Shop, where everything is sold by the kilo.  I remember the jacket being a bit too big, and I remember adding velcro to the inner pockets to prevent pick-pocketing during my travels (I was really paranoid about theives).  I have fond memories of that jacket including learning that the French word for velcro was "velcro".  So when I needed something to create Endless Combinations, a white jean jacket would be perfect.

I used Butterick 5616 from my stash:
Butterick 5616

Most reviewers mentioned the pattern being boxy, which is something I meant to minimize, if not eliminate.  I wisely made a muslin and did the following changes:

1.       I tapered the center back piece to narrow at the waist.  As drafted there was about a 2” difference between the finished bust and finished waist measurement…boxy indeed!
2.       I did a swayback adjustment, taking a ~1” fisheye dart across the back & side back pieces, tapering to nothing at the side seam.
3.       I did a slight FBA adding 3/8” to the bust at the side front.
4.       Below the bust I shaved off ~ ¼ ”on the seam to fit closer to the stomach.
5.       From my muslin, I discovered that the shoulders were very wide.  I narrowed them about 5/8”.
6.       I lengthened the sleeves from ¾ length to full length.
7.       I made the sleeve cuff narrower to match the lower band and used 1 button instead of 3
8.       I added ¼” twill tape along the collar to stabilize it. 
9.       I added interior pockets to the front pieces (you must have interior pockets to thwart pickpockets!!)
10.   I added a coat hanging loop.

I had JUST enough fabric for this jacket.  This is all that was left:
"Big" Scraps

"little" scraps

I am very happy with how it turned out.  I did made a bit of a goof-up however.  The sleeves & cuffs were designed to be 3/4 length and ending at the forearm.  I made the sleeves full length, but I forgot to taper them both down to be wrist size.  I realized my error after the cuffs were attached and topstitched.  Sigh...   So I put the button on ~2" from the edge of the cuff to make them a more sensible size.  





My Endless Combinations were complete.  Here is my collage:


It is a great assortment of outfits, and I am very pleased with how they turned out.  

Mid-April I was able to tag along when my husband had to go to Miami for work.  Here is a photo of me on South Beach, all cool and windblown:


Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Arm Candy and the Expo

I went to my first sewing Expo last week.  I realized at the last minute that I could attend the Original Sewing & Quilt Expo in Fredericksburg last Thursday.  When you know you're going to meet up with sewing enthusiasts, deciding what to wear becomes very thought out.  I decided that I wanted to make a new purse for the event.  It would need a shoulder strap, look nice, and be large enough to hold a bottle of water.  The time had come to make Vogue 8661:
Vogue 8661
I made View D and used a brown vinyl with black flowers for the front and back and black denim for the sides and straps.  Ta Da!
This bag was very quick to put together and the instructions were good.  One strange thing: the drawings show 1 zippered pocket on one (black) side.  The cutting layouts and notions list agree with that.  However, the drawings accompanying the instructions show 2 pockets one on each side.  Not a big deal, it seems more like a proofreading error.  I only put 1 side pocket in, and it's not likely that I will ever use it. I made the strap longer so I could wear it as a cross-body bag.  I modified the interior pockets to suit my needs:  2 open pockets on one side and a zippered pocket and pen holder pocket on the other. 
 
Instead of using cardboard to stiffen the base, I used the plastic cover from a good quality spiral notebook:
I am thrilled with my new bag, and it's inaugural use was at the Expo! There was only one class I was interested in attending that day:  Essential Tips for Fitting Yourself by Sarah Veblen.  I didn't realize when I signed up that she was the author of this fantastic fitting book that I use regularly:
Source
The class was really interesting and it really drove home the importance of horizontal balance lines being horizontal to the ground, and drag lines pointing to fitting issues.  After the class, I jumped at the opportunity to ask Sarah about something that has been bothering me for ages: armpit wrinkles in tee shirts.  I was wearing my Vogue 8390 (now OOP) which wasn't the best example of armpit wrinkles, but she gave me some advice anyway:

 
Sarah noticed right away that the shoulders were too wide (which I knew,) but she also said that the armhole was too high and should be lowered.  Wrinkles in the armpit area, she said, meant that I needed a dart.  "A dart in a tee shirt?"  "Yes".  "Really?"  "Yes."  Woah!

After my quick consult with Sarah, I headed over to meet someone in the class who I recognized:  Audrey from Sew Tawdry.  If you don't already read her blog, you may recognize her from FabricMart Fabricista's Challenge 2013.  The first 2 things I noticed about Audrey were that her skin is gorgeous: glowing and flawless, and she is really tall!  I felt even shorter than normal!  It's always nice to meet sewing bloggers IRL.  They really are so nice and welcoming.  :)

Most of my time at the Expo was spent trying out new sewing machines.  I have been thinking about upgrading mine I was happy to have the opportunity to try out several different brands.  I had a feeling that the Expo would be primarily geared toward quilters and I was right.  All of the machines I tried had quilting capabilities which honestly, I do not need.  I tried out the Viking 960Q, Bernina B 560, and the Janome Horizon Memory Craft 8900QCP.  Of the 3, I liked the Janome the best.  Janome also had the best and most knowledgeable saleslady.  She was honestly a riot and I had a great time test driving the machine and chatting with her.  In the end, I decided not to buy any of them.  I'm going to focus on finding a machine without any quilting features, since they will only drive up the price, and I have no desire to pay for features I will never use. Next up:  Bras!  

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Fearless February Garment of the Month Plan...

February is a short month and I am diving in head first.  I'm going to make another lined short coat/jacket!  Here are the pattern contenders:










Butterick & Vogue patterns went on sale at Jo-Ann's yesterday and I may have bought a few...

Butterick 5958: Princess seams and an off-center opening, and either a zip or button closure

Butterick 5966: Princess seamed flared coat with standup collar and hidden buttons

Vogue 8931:  Jacket with front and back darts, waist seam and quasi-peplum, and hidden buttons

Simplicty 2508: Raglan sleeve jacket/coat with center or off-set opening and collar variations.  I will say that I have a bit of a girl crush on the model on this pattern envelope.  She is so gorgeous in that white coat, that it makes me want to stare at the photo and then make a white coat.
 
I have ordered 2 different fabrics: a purple wool blend which is already on its way from Hart's Fabric, and a light gray wool blend which will hang out at Denver Fabrics for a while before being shipped via snail mail until it finally arrives at my house.  Does it drive anyone else nuts when you order from Denver Fabrics/Fashion Fabrics Club (same company btw) and it takes 2 weeks for your order to arrive? 

In the meantime, I need to figure out exactly what kind of jacket/short coat I want.  I'd like an early springtime coat so it won't need to be interlined and super warm, and it won't need to be long.  Decisions, decisions. 

Monday, May 20, 2013

Vogue 8390 Knit wrap top

I have been sewing up a storm lately, and it's not panicked me-made-May sewing either.  It's just that I have the time, the fabric, the patterns, and the drive to sew.  I knew I wanted to work on some knit tops and start sewing up some of the (many many) knit top patterns I have acquired.  I was debating between Vogue 8390 and Vogue 8790 seen here:

Vogue 8390
Vogue 8790
They are fairly similar but after reading reviews on www.patternreview.com, I decided that the 8390 would be best to try first mostly because V8790 would require a bit of shortening.  

Ta Da!


I used a polyester-lycra knit from fabric.com, found here.  I cut a straight 14 making the sleeves the width of the size 16.  I love it when patterns have the finished bicep measurement on the sleeve!  It's something I often forget about until it's too late.

I did a few things differently from the pattern instructions.  The pattern calls for the front to be fully lined.  So over your stomach, there would be 4 (!) layers of fabric...on a summer top!  Nope, not going to do that!  Instead I cut a 1.5" strip of fabric across the entire width of my fabric (so it would be definitely long enough) to use as a neck binding.  This eliminated the need for the double layers of the front pieces and created a nice finished edge to the neckline.  This also reduced the amount of fabric required by at least 1/2 yard!  

By not lining the front pieces I needed to deal with hemming the overlays BEFORE sewing up the side seams since the right front overlay is raised up from the bottom hem.  I hadn't anticipated this but it worked out without any problems.  

Oh-I almost forgot!  I used Steam-a-Seam for the first time on the hem and boy was it GREAT!!

I love the finished top but I will do 2 things differently next time.  
1.  The shoulders are too wide, you can see in this photo how the shoulder seam is off of my natural shoulders.


2.  The left front is a little loose.  In this closeup from the first photo, you can see how the bottom layer (next to my left hand) is very floppy.  I plan on slimming that piece down at least 1.5".  I'll either take a pie shaped piece out of the center of the pattern piece or take small triangular pieces off of the sides starting from the hem tapering to nothing about 3" up the sides.  


I love this top and I can't wait to make it again.  What's even better is that I have made a coordinating skirt:

I'll post about that one another time!






Tuesday, May 7, 2013

MMM Day 2,3,4,5, & 6

True to my word there have not been daily posts.

Lets start with Day #2 (Thursday):  I wore my purple Renfrew hot off the machine and my eldest daughter, who was home sick from school, wore her matching Jalie 2566 (not blogged yet).  The fabric was purchased from Denver Fabrics and is a nice thick jersey with good stretch and good recovery.  I used the same fabric for my New Look 6150.  I think 3 tops out of one piece of fabric is pretty good.



Friday May 3:
I realized today (day 3) that I really don't have many places to go and it's difficult to get dressed up for a trip to school to pick up the kids when I don't even have to leave the car.  But I did it anyway and it turned out to be a good thing.  My youngest and I wound up going directly to the doctor's office.  Long story short, she had a splinter under her thumbnail (ouch) and it got infected, wasn't healing very quickly and her teacher and school nurse recommended taking her in to get checked out because they were terrified of staph infection.  Sigh.  So we spent some time at the doctor's office where I wore this:



The top is an unblogged version of New Look 6111, and the skirt is my favorite most worn me-made item ever: my denim, McCall's 3830 pencil skirt.

 Day 4: Saturday May 4
It was an unseasonably cold Saturday morning watching a softball double header, and I had to break out my long sleeves and a winter jacket.   I wore my Purple New Look 6150 (no photo from that day-oops!):

Day 5: Sunday May 5 (Cinco de Mayo)
Worn to swim practice (thankfully it is indoors right now): my newly finished and not yet blogged Vogue 8390 in Brown jersey knit.



A proper review of this is forthcoming, but you can see a couple of issues I had with this top.  I cut a straight 14 and the shoulders are too wide.  You can see where the seam is versus where my shoulder is.  I will cut it narrower through the shoulders and upper chest.  In the left photo you can see the under-layer (left front) is a bit floppy by my left hand.  I found the entire layer too loose.  Next time I make it (and there will be a next time) I will take a pie shaped piece out of the center front of the left front to take out some of the looseness.  Otherwise it is a big winner!

Day 6: Monday May 6
Spent the day at home after going to the gym in the morning.  It was chilly again so I wore my long sleeve Vogue 8323.  Looking back I never did a blog post nor did I do a PatternReview.  Tsk tsk, especially since I wear it a lot.    

Look! An action shot of me making bias tape:


That's the state of my MMM so far!



Saturday, December 1, 2012

Vogue 8536: Snuggly Blue Mock-Wrap Tee

Since returning from India, I have taken advantage of online fabric shopping, and my inbox is regularly inundated by emails broadcasting sales from Fabric.com, FabricMart, and Denver Fabrics.  Since my local Joann's knit fabric selections are unimpressive at best, I am always pulled to browse the sites when they have knits on sale.  I bought this blue recycled polyester knit from Fabric.com and when it arrived, I was a little disappointed.  It wasn't what I had pictured and was a lot heavier than I thought it would be.  There is a waffle-like knit pattern on the front and the inside was fuzzy.  While it wasn't what I expected, I figured I could use it for something.  


Saturday mornings this past October were spent at the soccer field, and my tropically-thinned blood really needed some warm tops.  I thought of this blue fabric and then thought of Vogue 8536.  If I made the mock wrap version, the front would have a double layer of snugly fabric to warm my chilly bones.    

It came out great, and was even easier than the V neck versions I made a while ago since there was no fussy V to create.  :)

I made a size 16, with the long sleeves.  Once it was stitched it I didn't even bother to hem the bottom.  I just serged all the way around and left it long.  I wonder if I have a long torso since I never seem to hem these Vogue tops with anything larger than a minimal 'turn and stitch'.  A long torso and short legs...sigh.

This top turned out to be a happy use for a questionable fabric.  :)


Sunday, November 11, 2012

Candy Striper Blouse: Vogue 8747

When I saw this article in the June/July 2012 issue of Threads magazine, I knew I wanted to make Vogue 8747.  It's a classic blouse with gathering at the bust along the button placket.  Since returning home from India, I have been trying to dress nicer than just throwing on a tee shirt when I go out (even to the grocery store), so I have been wearing the few blouses I have quite a bit.

I wasn't feeling in the mood to do a muslin for this blouse.  It seemed like a lot of work and I didn't want to spend the time on a muslin when I could just dive right in.   I figured I could treat this version as a wearable muslin if needed.

This pattern comes with different pattern pieces for different cup sizes.  Uh-oh.  I know there are some people who do FBA's on every top/dress they make and this would be a huge time saver for them.  I've never had the FBA issue to deal with and to be given choices for cup sizes made me freeze with fear.  I mean, in terms of cup size, a 36B = 34C = 32D its just the rib cage that is different.  I had recently gone bra shopping and was still reeling a little by the size I bought.  Eventually I decided to follow the pattern instructions for choosing the cup size and do my measurements of full bust vs high bust.  My difference was 2"= B cup.  (I haven't worn a B cup since b.c.=before children), but, ok...if the pattern says so...let's cut.  I cut a 14 but made the side front pieces a 16 by the sleeve, and also graded the waist and hip seams out to a 16/18.   Well, it's done...next time I'll use the C cup pattern.  This is what happens when I move my arms back:

Whoops.  Not pretty
  
When I'm standing upright and still, it looks pretty good:

For fabric, I used a "shirting piece" that I bought in India ages ago.  It was 2.25m of 36" wide, high quality cotton.  It has pink and white stripes with a fine silver thread between every other stripe.  I feel like a candy striper when I wear this.  I would have preferred to have made long sleeves, but I didn't have enough fabric. The pattern itself is fine although I sewed the button plackets onto the wrong side of the fabric first and then had to topstitch the top down.  Not a big deal- it worked out.  

I will try this pattern again and I'm confident the next one will be better.  






Friday, September 21, 2012

Vogue 8536: Tee Shirts!!

So I bought my serger, learned how to thread it, can play with the tension knobs, and now I have sewn knits with it!!  In fact, I've made 2 Tee shirts already!  Woo hoo!

I started with Vogue 8536, a basic tee shirt pattern, and made a short sleeve, V neck version.


I'm wearing a racerback sports bra...the neckline really isn't too wide

Apologies for the odd expression on my face
I cut a size 16 for both, although now looking at the photos, I think I should narrow the shoulders down to a size 14 since the seams are just slightly off of my shoulders (more so in the blue version).  I used my serger for everything except the hemming and topstiching the neckline.  I love my serger!!

Here's the pattern review:

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it?  Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?  Yes, although I had a little trouble deciphering the instructions for inserting the V neckband.  I decided to ignore the instructions, think about it a bit, and then plow on ahead.  The neckline on the pink one came out better (beginner's luck I think).  Then I topstitched it down so that it would look more RTW and not roll outwards.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?  I liked the neckline and sleeve variations as well as the gathering at the side seams at the bust line to accommodate fullness.  I was a little confused about the instructions for inserting the V-shape neckband, but it worked out in the end. 

Fabric Used:  Modal Blend Jersey knit from Fabric.com

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:  I didn't add the side slits nor did I fold up the hem as much as the pattern suggested, instead I only turned up about 5/8".  I prefer to have longer shirts to wear at the gym. I also used clear elastic to stabilize the shoulder seams instead of seam binding.

Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?  Yes, absolutely, I will be making some long sleeve versions for this winter!

Conclusion:  A great basic T pattern.  


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